Ill start with seals, my buddy and i did the valve seals on my car, before it would only puff a little blue smoke on start up.. but after it was full out smoking on start up, also id be sitting at a stop light and would give it some throttle and a huge cloud comes out. We put the positive seals and O rings on the intakes and ONLY the O rings on exhaust. Should the positive seals gone on the exhaust valve stems to? After doing them, their not hard, so i want to fix this.


NOW, my other problem which is driving me nuts. I have a code 33. Checked all wiring, TPS, new MAF last year, Connector to MAF has been tested, Burnoff /fuel pump relay is good and working...wires to those have been cleaned up.

***When i unplug the MAF POWER relay, Nothing happens. The car continues to idle normally at same RPM. Whats the deal here?

Edit: ok i just did more testing, looks like my maf power and fuel relays were mixed up, would that cause anything since theyre not the same relay?

Where did you put the O rings ?
They should be sandwiched between the retainer cap and the valve locks , I've seen people make the mistake of just sliding them on the valve and then they work like an oil pump every time the valve opens they push oil into the guide .
Whether that's the issue or not put the positive seals on the exhaust too

We put the O rings on the little groove where the old ones were, or what was left of them. They seem useless IMO. What i think might have happened was when we put the springs on, the O rings slid down. I've been checking my oil every couple days, and its going FAST.. Ill get into it on friday/this weekend and update.

That's what I was getting a if you put the O ring on and then the retainer cap that's where you screwed up , You're supposed to compress the spring then put the Oring on then the valve locks [ sandwiching it between them ]

Looks like we were both right. We took a look at it today and the O ring was slid down near the bottom. Now to install the positive seals as well and it should be good!

Also, as for the code, i replaced all 3 relays and im still getting it. I can drive the car for 45 minutes before it sets the code. I adjusted the TPS even though it only reached 3.69 WOT. All the wiring is good, im starting to think its the ECM itself. The MAF is a re manufactured one, i noticed on the bottom of the MAF where that block is, the cover fell off when i was fiddling with it and there's corrosion going on in there

Amazing how much oil that little rubber O ring can pump isn't it