Brief history:

Car had a stock master cylinder 01-02 variant with the drill mod. The drill mod is a must on 98-02 cars at minimum. It involves removing the restriction on the line so that fluid can go back/forth between the master and slave quickly. The braided line was heavily insulated from heat, heater hose + DEI spark plug wire protector boot.

After 1 year, the master started the dreaded sticking clutch pedal syndrome. This would occur during long drives followed with consecutive high rpm shifts. example would be 3-4 and 4-5 at 6500rpm. It would stick after a 1-2 2-3 3-4 shift as well so drag races were out of the question in these conditions.

Purchased a mityvac, went to DOT 5.1 fluid from DOT 4.1 and kept it clean always. This was a temporary solution though that gave me another year of life on it, but in a 1-2 2-3 3-4 4-5 sequence, that last shift had it sticking only slightly, but at least in the 1/4 mile it was safe.

Installed the tick master at the end of August and its all fixed now. There is a significant difference in the release of the clutch, it was like night and day what a full release feels like. Since I got this car, my transmission has always felt "notchy". The only way to describe it is that it didn't go into gear without a "click". Now it goes into gear with a reduced click, but so subtle now that it might as well be trying to suck the shifter into gear. It's that smooth of a shift feel for me. This obviously fixed my sticking pedal issue. The LS7 clutch was purchased 4 months before the stock master, but the stock master was dying in a year.

The tick master has a heavy pedal feel initially, but later I discovered it does have a break in period. After 2 weeks of daily driving, the pedal got softer in feel. Talked to tick and they told me its pedal feel will only be 15% stiffer than stock. Your pressure plate is really what determines pedal feel. The LS7 is pretty much a stock feel.

The pedal position will be determined by how much adjustment is necessary. This means you don't adjust to where you want, but rather to how much fluid is necessary for a full release. This puts the pedal just at the same level as the brake. Pedal throw has been reduced to 70% of where it was stock. Needless to say, shorter throw is less travel and less time to get that clutch released which will lead to quicker shifts.

Build quality. The bracket is made of billet aluminum and comes all parts necessary to install. The master is a tilton master, one of the best in the industry. The bore size alone will allow you to push more fluid. The size also helps as a heat sink as well. Hydraulic line is typical steel braided, but it is fully covered in a quality heat wrap. It is a tight fit to get into position and not the easiest to get installed but it will fit. The fact it is a billet bracket also means it has no insulation from the engine bay. I'd recommend using some silicone after the install on the firewall to keep engine bay heat out. Also of note is that since the bracket is aluminum, use anti seize on the bolts. Getting it initially threaded, you MAY end up stripping the threads if it just isn't lined up 100%.

The price. At $320 USD, this is NOT cheap. If you total what it will cost you to replace a clutch though that died before its time, its small change. A master, a slave, a stock LS7 clutch or equivalent, will run you at LEAST $700 USD in parts + labor to install. You don't want to know what the "canadian" pricing is for these parts as that's even more ridiculous despite discounts.

If the tick existed when my pedal first started sticking, I probably could have brought the life of my clutch to 200 000 km. 100k and 200+ drag launches and countless roll runs later is still a good deal, but knowing what I know now about the stock master, maintenance and clutch life, the tick master is one of those no second thought required decisions.

Customer service with tick performance is awesome. If you want your clutch to last in a LSx vehicle, I'd recommend swapping it out immediately.