One thing I've noticed with adjusting lash is that every engine is different.

However on roller SBC's and LT1's I've had my best luck setting my lash at 1/2 turn passed zero lash.

A lot of places say 3/4 turn past zero lash which I've done too but I found the engine run slightly rougher and was smooth as butter with 1/2 turn on my cammed LT1 I'm running right now.

It also depends on the rocker stud size because 3/8 and 7/16 equate to different preloads at the same amount of turns. If you plan on reving it high then less is more. I ran 1/4 turn with 7/16 stud and LS7 lifters to 6800 rpms with no problems.

Right on the money 7/16 have 20 threads per inch and 3/8 have 24 so on a 7/16 stud 1/2 turn equals .025 and on a 3/8 it equals .020 not a huge difference but like flame said preload can make a big difference on high rpm . On a street car I usually go 3/8 to 1/2 turn that way it stays quiet and nobody has to reset anything , on vehicles that the main plan is to run on the track the least amount on preload without the popper making contact with the snap ring the better [ usually about a 1/4 turn ] The reason behind that is that at high rpm the oil pressure will try to push the popper up too the snap ring, making valve to piston contact more likely and beating the crap out of the snap ring .

so what you guys are saying is a 1/2 turn on 7/16 is too much pre load? i dont plan on reving past 6200 (thats what i have programmed in the rev limit anyway) should i just go 1/4 turn and lock it down to get correct preload?

Go with 3/8 to 1/2 turn that way you don't need to worry about pulling the valve covers and ever resetting anything

I already have the 7/16 studs nuts and rollers

I am with flame and efh although I play with it sometimes. IMO When in doubt though is go with the cam/lifter manufacturers recommendation. With stock street parts(L98s) I tend to put more at 1/2-3/4.

ok so a little update
starting putting the heads on found out that the head bolt kit i ordered didn't have enough bolts to finish both heads so i had to reorder an ARP kit (which i should have done from the get go) then torque wrench i was using broke since i was trying to measure up the correct length for pushrods, so snapping a head bolt in the block was not fun. Getting all that straighten out and ordered 7.150" hardened pushrods and a new head gasket and ARP bolt kit i started tackling this thing like crazy. setting the valve adjustments and making sure it was all done in order took a while but it almost looks like a motor again on to the pics.....

water pump installed with new opti


Roller is complete with new pushrods

What guide plates are you using? I don't like the look of the rockers in the second last picture. The rocker is not centered over the valve tip.

GM hardened guideplates, i think im still going to go back and adjust the rockers again while the car is running, as a final adjustment.

Flames got a point unless it's an optical illusion the 2nd rocker from the left looks off . Some guide plates you can move and pivot a bit to get the alignment better .

trickflows guides are the most common... im running the isky adjustable's and had a bit of grinding to do but they fit perfect after.

Is this the #14011051 you used? You will find that there is a bit of movement when you tighten the studs down to hold the plate. Could just be shifted a bit and worth checking.

from the pic i think i willhave to give them a good look over again, the rest look ok but that one does look shifted a bit.

oh btw when i adjusted them (valve lash) i just rotated the engine over to have both lifters down is the correct method? thats basically TDC on the compression stroke. i also adjusted them cylinder by cylinder.

I used method 1 http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves