not to much, had a family christmas thing yesterday, hopefully will get the shifter hole cut today, and the driveshaft and torque arm in today. Still waiting on my uncle to finish the heads(he is free so i dont want to rush him,lol)

well got the shifter hole mostly cut today, but other than that, the car kicked my ass, lol, who knew putting a whole in the floor would be that big of a pain in the ass, everything started going a bit better when i grabbed my air chisel though, lol. tomorrow i have to go and get a new jigsaw blade to finish up and hopefully get the rest of the transmission stuff done.

I guess you don't have a cut off wheel, thats the best way to go. Also on the first setup can you run factory style injectors. I read through the entire website but i couldn't find anything about what injectors you have to use with it.

you can use stock injectors, as for the cut off wheel, i really dont want to use a grinder(lol i actually have 3 of them and a dremel as well)) on the inside of the car, not without completely stripping the interior out of it. the jig saw works quite well, as long as you let the saw do the work, and not try to rush it.

well good news the trans is bolted in, torque arm mounted(who the f*** designed that hunk of crap system), hole cut in the floor. Now for the bad news, to lower the transmission i removed the slave cylinder on for the hydraulic clutch, now i cant seem to get it back on, its fully extended and i cant get it to compress again.

get a block of wood, open your master reservoir, then push the end of the slave(part that's extended) back into the slave. that's also how you bleed it.

well i figured it out today, the pedal is slightly depressing the cylinder whidh wouldnt let the fluid flow backwards to the resevoir, unhooked the pedal and everything went fine, although i did notice the one cylinder is leaking a little bit, i might have to get a new parts for that.

update, i mounted the shifter today, and also got the driveshaft installed, that aluminum 4th gen piece is a hell of alot bigger than the steel thirdgen piece.

i do have a couple of questions though, while the car is up in the air should i mount my starter, will i have the room to put the headers on after.

Also does anybody have a boot for the floor of a 4th gen or a 3rd gen, i need to cover the hole in the floor before i install my console.

depends what headers your putting on. if it's a 3" collector i would put the headers on first, but i have never had to pull my starter to install my headers with a 2 1/2" collector. if you have to install them from the bottom then i would leave it off. It's safe to say you would be better off putting you headers on first.Also for your rubber shifter boot, i found that the rubber shift boot on the older for pickup trucks work great. from the 70's to about 96' f-150 i just used some small self tapping screws with large flat washers,and used silicone adhesive to seal around the boot. alot easier and cheaper than finding a manual shifter boot for an f-body.

thanks for the info, i will look for one of those boots, as for the collectors, i am not to sure what size they are, i will have to get of my but and go check, lol

Good job so far Mike, I still feel bad for teasing you that day (not really ) but the Formula has had it's share of down time since so you get the last laugh. Cool pics, I really do plan to come down and watch you work sometime soon!!!

heads are back, now to just get them put on, lol and figure out what i am going to do for rocker arms.

good now get them on, as for rockers, rollor 1.6 course there is always 1.65 and 1.7 rr's depending on your springs and your cams lift.

That motor should make some nice power, it looks like it already has flat top pistons, What CC are the cylinder heads?

they were 62 cc, but have had .008 removed to clean up the bottom, so i am not to sure what size they are anymore.

It should have around 9.6:1 compression or more after you milled the heads. She should put down some nice numbers.