Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
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Tanager
Forum User
Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:19 pm Posts: 140 Location: Brampton, Ontario
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
I will check tonight - but I think the previous owner did change them out with Bosch injectors.
I am assuming I should be able to see from looking at them if they are the original multitec or Bosch...regardless I will measure resistance on them, and read fuel pressure (picking up a gauge on the way home).
DK
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Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:55 pm |
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Hawk
Forum Moderator
Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2005 10:28 pm Posts: 5900 Location: Center of the Universe
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
Tanager wrote: I am assuming I should be able to see from looking at them if they are the original multitec or Bosch... Bosch III or the Denso are good Bosch III are colour coded to there size, so 19# would look like this
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Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:05 pm |
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Tanager
Forum User
Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:19 pm Posts: 140 Location: Brampton, Ontario
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
Think I maybe a step closer - or atleast ruling a few things out.
Tried starting it today and got it to run - for a bit - rough as expected until it stalled out and wouldnt fire up again.
Checked on resistance on injectors - all checked out at 16.7 ish +/- .2. Couldnt tell for sure if they were stockers or replacements - they are black in colour with a green "ring" around....they dont look like a 20 year old part - but who knows for sure as I couldnt see a part number or name.
Checked fuel pressure with my new gauge - came up at approx 42ish when turning the key to on (fuel prime) and drops fairly gradually (2-3 min) to about 10PSI and then I released pressure on the guauge. How long should it maintain the pressure?
Fuel pressure regulator?
I dont have much experience on TPI fuel systems so any help is much appreciated!
Dave
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Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:28 pm |
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Slade
CCFBG Club Member
Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 1:11 pm Posts: 1699 Location: Brampton
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
The fuel pressure regulator maintains pressure, if broken, it will allow too much pressure to build up or none at all. There should be a slow drop off of pressure if the pump is not running, but when priming it should always go up to the pressure the system is design for. I think 42 psi is normal for TPI systems.
The way it works is that at idle, there should be vacuum on the regulator causing it to stay closed, as the load increases, the vacuum drops and allows more fuel to go in.
As it is struggling, keep an eye on the pressure and see if it fluctuates, should be 40+ for TPI setups at idle.
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Fri Sep 28, 2012 6:46 pm |
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Tanager
Forum User
Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:19 pm Posts: 140 Location: Brampton, Ontario
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
Thanks guys, I havent had much time to revisit it/trouble shoot the last week. Its being towed in the AM...Kid + job + house renos = not much time for the toy I will report back what it is once the garage takes a look at her.
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Fri Sep 28, 2012 7:36 pm |
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Kevs87TA
CCFBG Club Member
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2005 2:28 am Posts: 709 Location: Kitchener, On
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
Check the injectors with your ohm meter, pull the plug off the injector and set your meter to omhs. If the injector is good it will read about 15-16 ohms . When I first had problems with car, I checked mine and I had two that were under 5 ohms, one on each bank. Car does not need to be runing for this check
Oops, nevermind. I just saw your previous post when you checked them
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Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:09 am |
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Z28 MeTaL HeAd
CCFBG Club Member
Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:42 pm Posts: 2739 Location: Mississauga
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
Tanager wrote: Couldnt tell for sure if they were stockers or replacements - they are black in colour with a green "ring" around....they dont look like a 20 year old part - but who knows for sure as I couldnt see a part number or name. Do they look like these? Or how about any of these? The 42# in this pic are the same as the above pic: Or is the green 'ring' you're referring to the rubber O-ring on the injector, just it's green in colour? Hopefully you don't have 42# injectors in the thing..if you do your car will barely run without a complete, thorough and proper tune as a 42# injector is HUGE, especially considering 305 TPI's have 19# and 350 TPI's have ~22# injectors. Most bolt-on L98's swap in stock LT1 injectors (24#) to slightly increase the fueling. TPI modding is very finicky which is most likely why it never really picked up very well and why most fast 3rd gen's from back in the day were converted to carb.
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Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:08 am |
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chevypower91
Forum User
Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2005 10:29 am Posts: 78 Location: Milton
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
Any updates?
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Sat Feb 09, 2013 9:07 am |
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Tanager
Forum User
Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:19 pm Posts: 140 Location: Brampton, Ontario
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
Hi Guys, just noticed I never responded to the solution late in the summer.
Turned out to be an ECM. Took it to the garage as I didnt have time to solve/chase down the issue. They Tracked it down Clicking/electrical noise from the ecm...couple taps on it then I could get the car to run....couple taps on it again and it would stall out. If I didnt see it with my own eyes I wouldnt believe it as I hear about people swapping ECM's all the time and they dont turn out being bad.
Almost 1000 kms on it before going into storage for the winter and not a problem since replacing the ECM.
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Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:19 am |
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89RAG
Newbie
Joined: Sat Nov 17, 2012 2:25 pm Posts: 3
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Re: Dead on road, and then no-start - ideas?
flame wrote: Yeah the old multec is a terrible injector and being bank fired if you have one bad one on each bank the pcm drivers may not be able to fire any of them check all the injectors for resistance... they should be in and around 16 or so ohms. if you have any injectors that have flattened out(0 ohms) then you may also need to replace the computer. In GM's infinite wisdom, they have only provided a single injector driver to run both banks! dont let the fuse box mislead you... the banks are powered seperately left and right with voltage but are controled by just one driver. Had this exact same issue last year. I replaced the injectors with some stock 5.0L ford injectors. i went this route because they are much more reliable then the Rochesters and the price is a little more cost effective. although i now have to have the prom tuned due to a different flow rate. still ended up being cheaper than buying new replacement Multec's. Hope this helps a little.. Cheers, Chris
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Fri May 24, 2013 12:44 pm |
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