My TPI info? LOL what TPI info? I stopped trying toi develop these piles of junk circa mid 90's and went back to carbs. But I watched, then helped someone close to me pour a lot of dough into a TPI a few years ago, managed 12's hoping for 11's also... no expense spared either, there was no budget, hired the best tuners in the city, tried numerous intake set ups, all brand new parts and pro shop built engines, yep ENGINES it took one out with ring wash "trying" to tune it, porting etc it was a long hard road with multiple trips to dyno and track and after all that? Still only managed high 12's and it needed constant tune tweaks to run half decent. Any temperature change would throw it into fits

As for rear mount? Yeah well I said my bit, do as you please. I wouldnt ever build one I guess is what im trying to say but it isnt hard to spot a turbo out back either.

Sometimes I wonder about coincidence and timing lol. I just watched this show, and I have to agree with what they say towards the end, especially @ 38.05

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpQlD-FL ... 16CECEA3BC

Back in the early '90s there was a turbo kit that mounted the turbo under the right side battery tray so most things under hood stayed put and the turbo was hidden. I had pics of it on my old computer which is now in a landfill. They're somewhere on TGO. The issue with that setup and the rear mount is that both require a scavenging pump to get oil back to the engine. If that fails so does the turbo. With it mounted above, in view, you don't need that. Piping isn't that complicated. I have a set of used TES headers. Driver's side stays as is. Passenger side gets cut up and turned into a log that the passenger side gets plumed into as well. Then that log goes into the turbo. Then there's the waste gate and down pipe. Both fairly simple. The cold side will more or less be a mirror image of procharger's routing. I'm going to try 1.6 rockers before doing a cam which will likely be an LT1 or something else that peaks no higher than 5500rpm.

and it still says nothing against what I was saying I think your arguing with yourself, because your not paying attention to what I was saying

at least you admit you know nothing about TPI, now u got a minor lesson

Yes I know about that under tray set-up, and the scavenger could go just like any other car part, that's why you need a good one, and pray to your personal god , like Cam your over looking what was said, for starters again your cutting up and re fabricating the one header, easy for you maybe, but not for the average Joe, and that's my point, the rear mount is "EASIER" not better. Relocating stock equipment to stay legal, extending wires and hoses, fabing up new mounts for said equipment, cutting and fabing up headers, cutting and fabing up piping, fabing up y-pipes, all not easy for the everyday person, simple for some of us, but not all of us.

To sum it up, I didn't say a TPI was better then an LSx, nor did I say a rear mount turbo was better then a front mount, people will go the rout they go for there own reasons and to suit there own abilities, all I said was 300rwhp is doable out of a TPI and that a rear mount is easier to do then a front mount, both are very true

Currently the only TPI I have is in my plow truck, right where a TPI belongs

Just for you Cam

There is actually and sts rearmount turbo setup on kijiji for $1050. Not sure how different it would be from a 3rd gen setup but that is dirt cheap!!!!

If it is for a 4th gen F-body then the changes are minimal

Just for the record, I am not saying the Original Poster should go with a rear mount, or anyone else for that mater, just that they are easy to do for a turbo set-up

and a TPI is not easy to work on, just pulling the Intake off is a royal pain in the ass,

LOL some good'rs there.

Turbos imo are the same as stall convertors and especially clutches which should almost always be bought brand new. Used usually means abused.

If you want China cheap you can buy a BW S75 knock off on ebay for 150 bucks ( in those links I posted earlier somewhere ) There are guys who have run 9's with these and they make good arguments when using stock jy drop out short blocks they really dont care if the engine blows, or the turbo fails because of low cost. Plus once the piping is done you can always swap to a better unit ( same flange ) at anytime in mere minutes. Id do a T4 speaking of flange, lots of great units on that frame.

On a side note i couldn't care less about the "cop pressure" or the like anymore, I build what i want, how I want, too bad for those that dont like it whatever their job may be, I do not care anymore. Far as Im concerned im a product of what society built me to be. Hot rods and the life that goes with it have LONG been glorified and encouraged, then sold to us. These sleeze bags running the show in Ontario of late seem to not like this, and only want our money, and anyone who speaks poorly about my freedom or tries to take away things I worked my whole life developing skills to build, and then busted hump earning money to buy, can go jump in the lake.

Theres strength in numbers, so as far as Im concerned as long as your into cars? You get two thumbs up, and helpful advice, whenever I can provide it.

Lol i actually have 2 used turbos. Both different flanges. One that should be perfect and one that could probably make close to single digit et power that was free due to an internal waste gate issue. Only costs me about 150 to get them rebuilt if needed.

I am keeping my TPI motor...it will be rebuilt as it is getting tired, it will look good, it will perform, it will have driveability...the only way I want an LS motor is if I buy a 1998 + Trans Am. I am not looking for a track car, I don't have to worry about racing some ricer in his Civic...I just want to enjoy my GTA and look good doing it. Besides I like the look of my TPI...

Nothing looks better than a clean TPI set up

I just got all the info I am looking for on GTA Source Page. The guy is selling his complete set up. I was chatting with him and he says that the car passed emissions every time. Only problem is that he is in Ohio. But, the info he gave me gives me some direction. He is also using a 90 SD ECM same as mine...
355 HSR L98
all clearances checked, rebuilt with new hyper pistons and rings
10.5:1 compression
lt4 hotcam .525/.525 224/224
holley stealthram with fuel pressure gauge, 30 Lb red top injectors, and billet aluminum adjustable fuel pressure regulator
113 aluminum vette heads
- 18 hours of porting and polishing
- 2.02/1.56 valves machined in
- manley titanium race valves with 7 angle valve job
- zz9 springs good to .550 lift
- screw in studs with pushrod guide plates
- 1.6 full roller rockers
march serpentine system with underdrive pullies.
Hooker super competition long tube headers, jet hot coated with custom 3 inch y pipe.
700r4 tranny
- phoenix racing 2500 stall torque converter
- transgo shift kit
- corvette servo and .500 boost valve
90 speed density ecm and custom wiring harness
- custom dyno tune 335 rwhp 355 rwtq

Stealth Ram..I thought you were set on the TPI...BIG difference between the two.
Will that fit under a stock bird hood?

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/3rd-gen ... ake-56145/

Looks like a pretty decent setup if the price is right.